CREATIVE HUBS: GOTHENBURG

How’s this for a fact: Gothenburg is the most sociable city in the world. According to a 2017 study of global sociability, the place came up trumps thanks to its openness, the frequency with which residents socialise and an ominous third category called propensity to party…

Mind you, Gothenburg has got reason to smile. The Scandinavian hotspot has gone from strength to strength in recent years. It’s music that really put it on the map – José González, Little Dragon and Goat among the city’s greatest artistic outputs (notwithstanding its strong contingent of heavy metal). And every June, the Way out West Festival draws crowds from across the world. (Everyone is well-dressed and really, really good looking.)

The city’s eclectic taste for music transfers to lively nightlife, a good amount of which takes place along the Långgatorna, or “the long streets”. It is areas like this – packed with bars selling experimental cocktails and craft beers – that have earned the city the misnomer of ‘Little London’. Meanwhile, the area of Haga, once rundown and rowdy, has been renovated and today hosts cosy cafés along its cobbled streets.

Gothenburg’s status as a city of culture became clear with the Biennial opened back in 2001. But there’s a number of more countercultural examples of creativity too. Known as Artscape, Scandinavia’s biggest street art festival reached Gothenburg last year and oversaw the exhibition of large-scale urban works across all ten of Gothenburg’s districts. Meanwhile, housed in a former boiling house, Roda Sten Konsthall is a contemporary space that hosts numerous workshops and installations.

Thanks to Gothenburg’s coastal location, seafood is life here. Fishing was originally one of the city’s most important industries and the Feskekorka, which translates to ‘fish church’, has been functioning as a fish market since 1847. Word is spreading – there are now six Michelin-starred restaurants in the city and critics are flocking to the fishing villages that dot the coast.

Gothenburg is a lively city with a creativity that is all-encompassing – spanning music, design, art and food. Like your overachieving friend, we can hardly believe our luck that it’s friendly too.


WHERE TO STAY

Elite Plaza Hotel

Green Day is staying here. My inner 90's girl is freaking out.

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Housed in a regal 19th-century building, the Elite Plaza hotel retains historical details such as Italian marble stucco and a mosaic floor in the lobby. It’s a member of the Design Hotels portfolio, and rooms feature sumptuous velvet furnishing offset by burnished copper tables.

Hotel Barken

Sverige 🇸🇪💛💙 #sissies #stripes #nauticandnice #enhiermogenwijslapenvannacht

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Set on board a ship that dates back to 1907, this hotel is just about as close to seafaring Scandinavia as it gets. Rooms are maritime through and through – with wood-panelled walls hung with seascapes. Ahoy, there.

Hotel Pigalle

nattaaaa

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With swathes of silk, touches of velvet and details in gold brocade, this boutique hotel looks as though it’s been plucked right out of Paris – it’s the opposite of pared-back Scandi chic. One for the lovers, the lifts let out a giggle when you reach your floor.


WHAT TO SEE

Fika in Haga

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Independent coffee shops are the name of the game in Gothenburg (there’s only one Starbucks in the entire city). Make for Haga for some of the best roasters in town – we love Café Husaren for its mix-and-match wallpaper and giant cinnamon buns.

Southern Archipelago

Escape the city – by ferry or a 30-minute tram – and take a day-trip to Gothenburg’s southern archipelago. In the warmer months it’s enough to wile away the time by jumping off rocks into the cooling water, while in the winter you can get your bearings by walking or cycling.

Liseberg

Liseberg <3

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Margate eat your heart out – Liseberg is the biggest amusement park in Scandinavia and also Sweden’s oldest. High-octane hits include a vintage wooden roller coaster called Balder, while those who want to keep things calm might make for the carousel castle instead.


WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

Gabriel’s, Feskekorka

West Coast Love at @restauranggabriel #comfortfood

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Make for the fishmarket and spend some time admiring the fresh catch – rows of prawns, oysters and lobster – before hopping upstairs to Restaurant Gabriel’s to order a glass of champagne and a plate of buttery lemon sole.

Folk

This veggie hotspot is housed within the lobby of an arts theatre and specialises in small sharing plates and natural wines. Feast on the likes of butter-baked cauliflower and fried ginger, and be sure to plan your visit over the weekend for the chance of live music and DJ sets.

Ölstugan Tullen

Ölstugan Tullen – Majorna Vid charmiga Mariaplan i Majorna/Kungsladugård ligger Ölstugan Tullen. Ölstugan Tullen, är en krog som finns på sju (!) olika ställen i Göteborg och serverar endast svensk öl där en stor del av sorterna är från lokala bryggerier. Det är ett ölhak med förvånande nog riktigt god mat! Ölstugan Tullen i Majorna har en finare krogmeny med svensk husmanskost för ungefär 100 kr/rätt. Vid besöket var vi fyra i sällskapet och tog en plats på deras uteservering. Vi beställde bland annat Havets wallenbergare, en Getostsallad och Panerad ost. Alla i sällskapet var väldigt nöjda med sina val och tyckte alla rätter var väldigt vällagade och goda! Man beställer själv dryck och mat vid disken. Snabb service och trevlig stämning. Lokalen vid Mariaplan är stor både inomhus och utomhus med både en inglasad och icke-inglasad uteservering! Ölstugan Tullen är perfekt för en AW med ett lite större gäng. Rekommenderas starkt! Betyg: 🍴🍴🍴🍴#krogklubbengbg #foodie #ölstugantullen #olstugantullen #göteborg #mariaplan

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Dating back to 1892, this pub can get packed to the rafters. In the summer months, escape the crowds and join the throng outside. Alongside a healthy selection of craft beers and wine, Ölstugan also serves up Swedish comfort food (read: meatballs).

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Kate Hamilton
The former Editor-in-Chief of SUITCASE Magazine, Kate is a freelance journalist who was written for titles including The Guardian, Wallpaper*, Stylist, ES Mag and Refinery29. She is based in London and always travels with books and an excessive amount of stationery.